GAZA CITY - I’m not altogether sure how one properly apologizes in Arabic.
I certainly know the word, as I clumsily offend local customs quite regularly in the Middle East.
But it’s difficult for me to express the Scandinavian guilt that we Minnesotans so often attach to such acts of contrition. I compensate with extra eye contact, and sometimes repeat my apology a few more times than is expected, in hopes of wearing down local cynicism.
Yet in a region rich in theatrical nuance, it’s difficult to convey the sort of sincere discomfort a Minnesotan feels when forced to leave someone to shovel their own car out of the ditch.
Of course, there’s no snow in the Gaza Strip, and hence not all that much shoveling. But ditches are plentiful, and so are problems, and it pains me to see regular folks in Gaza left out in the cold to fend for themselves.
Such is life as a Minnesotan in the Middle East-torn between guilt and gratitude, especially with the holiday season upon us.
Ironically, there are few better places than Gaza to marvel at Minnesota’s material bounty, and to give thanks as well for that grand tradition known as Minnesota Nice.
The Gaza Strip is currently under an economic and military siege, and the difficulty of the situation is trumped only by its complexity. As a result, even the most meager pleasures, be it a good cup of drip coffee or some stale candy corns, are greeted with joyful appreciation. Of course this only makes the abundance of the Midwest seem that much more uncanny. With so much water, so much soil, and the knowledge of how to manage it, surely we, from the Northland, are blessed.
Yet life in Gaza makes me even more appreciative of our social riches back home. Without a grounding in diplomacy-Minnesota style, in places as notorious as Gaza, I would have found myself upended by my own bravado long ago. No doubt this contradicts conventional wisdom; when in threatening places, surely it’s best to hunker down, or, if feeling adventurous, to meet skepticism with more of the same. Emotional and physical detachment is the widely advertised way to survive such brutal surroundings.
But this rings hollow to me. Suspiciously guarding against your neighbor’s aspirations, your neighbor’s beliefs, your neighbor’s concerns is, perhaps, sadly understandable for those shaped and forged in the Middle East, in places like Gaza. Yet not for me. I’m not Arab, nor Israeli, nor Jewish, nor Muslim. I’m Minnesotan, and I’m clinging tenaciously to our cultural norms that celebrate getting to know one’s neighbors, building inclusive communities and, whenever possible, helping someone you’ve never met dig their way out of the snow.
Of course this sounds better in romantic theory than in actual practice — especially when surrounded by perennial conflict. It’s not by coincidence that some of the first words I learned in Arabic and Hebrew were “donkey” and “fool.” Such is life when you respond to every casual greeting on the Arab street with a chipper “Fine, thanks, and you?” The world isn’t quite ready for Minnesota and its eagerness to make the most of the thinnest of connections. Yet in rough-scrabble places like this, the world could use it.
Consider the skateboard I routinely carry with me through the Israel-Gaza border crossing. In this heavily fortified zone, the same men and women face off each day, separated by a mere 3,000 feet of no-man’s land yet hopelessly divided by generations on end of misinformation and misunderstanding.
But what have I learned as I’ve chatted, Minnesota-style, with the Israeli Defense Forces on one side and Hamas on the other? They both dig on skateboarding.
Over time I’ve discovered that Israeli troops have better technique, while the Hamas border guards are a bit more open and excited at the prospect of learning something new.
Every time I have to cross the divide, I skate with both sides. I can’t really share the irony with my respective friends that they’re enjoying the same diversion, using the same boards, as their mortal enemies, often only minutes apart. But I’m reminded how much we all have in common — if we just make the effort.
So as I journey home this holiday season, crossing militant boundaries guarded by gun-toting soldiers, undergoing strip searches with little more than a twinkle in my eye, I give thanks for Minnesota, where there’s not much difference in ideologies at 20 below. While others will be screaming insults and lamenting our unbridgeable differences, some of us will simply be smiling, and asking the person next to us how their day is going.
It may not be “shock and awe,” but in a world full of hostility, it is a beginning.
Patrick McGrann heads Kitegang, a Minneapolis-based toy company dedicated to supporting kids in the toughest corners of the world. He currently lives in the Gaza Strip.
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